A Meal You Can Eat Over and Over
The concept of a tasting menu has long been one that I didn’t quite get. To clarify, I get what it is: a series of small portions, often on those dumb dishes that are not quite bowl and not quite plate, served to affluent couples in their sixties (something like that). I didn’t understand why the best restaurants in the world opted to offer so much instead of serving each diner one incredible dish. But recently, my feelings have changed, thanks largely to Season 2 of FX’s The Bear. The switch-up has less to do with the artful capturing of the process behind a tasting menu experience, which is certainly present, and more to do with the ambitious yet focused telling of the new season’s story.
The Bear, created by Christopher Storer, follows Carmen “Carmy” Berzatto (Jeremy Allen White), a skilled fine-dining chef who must return home to Chicago to run his family’s sandwich shop after his brother’s suicide. Carmy is helped, and inadvertently hurt, in his quest to keep the hectic store afloat by an eclectic supporting cast. Season 1 ended with plans to convert the restaurant from a hole-in-the-wall gem (“The Beef”) to something more elevated (“The Bear” (yes, like the show)). This journey, realized in Season 2, is mirrored in what the show accomplishes as a piece of television: an impressive elevation. That’s not to say Season 1 was in any way bad, but Season 2 is able to explore so much more. Season 1 demonstrated that Storer and the show’s creative team have an impressive fastball. Season 2 proved that there are many more pitches in the show’s arsenal.
The key example of this so-called elevation is in the show’s supporting characters. Season 2 saw added growth and depth for almost every character seen on screen. Marcus (Lionel Boyce), the aspiring pastry chef, spends an episode in Copenhagen learning from an expert, gaining perspective on life in and out of the kitchen. In another episode, line cook Tina (Liza Colón-Zayas) goes to cooking school and ultimately steps into the role of sous-chef at The Bear. And, in a top contender for season highlight (Dare I say 2023 television highlight? Dare I?), the hard-shelled, down-on-his-luck everyman Richie gains a new lease on life after spending a transformative week training at Chicago’s top restaurant. Each of these stories, among others like them, are all so distinct in plot and style, but so well connected thematically. Growth and reinvention are playing out quite well here. Each episode, each course, in service of the season “meal” (Too on the nose? Probably. Don’t care.)
But the realization of growth and successful reinvention are not the only flavors present. Heartbreak, trauma and struggle are captured on screen as well. Panic attacks and failed romances are prevalent. An extended episode (60 minutes instead of a typical 30) is entirely devoted to a horrific Berzatto family flashback. Carmy specifically cannot crack happiness (or even contentment) (or anything resembling being kind of okay). These frenetic moments, already plentiful in Season 1, have even better honed their ability to be wild but focused. A continued, improved, nuanced sour amongst the season’s new-found sweet (This metaphor sucks. No, it rocks. Proceeding with it).
A through-line of the season is a mantra, taken from Carmy’s circle in the world of fine dining: “Every Second Counts.” It’s remarkable how it relates to each character’s story, the season itself, and the show in general. So much is explored, so many genres and paces and storytelling techniques, but all done in an incredibly efficient way. It also connects to the show’s production schedule, with Season 3 already on the way, expected to be released in June. Hopefully, another helping of excellent television is being cooked up. I certainly am hungry for more.
Charlie Boucher is a sophomore Television & Digital Media Major who writes down each and every ingredient Jeremy Allen White has ever used for cooking in his life. You can reach him at [email protected].